Saturday, May 7, 2016

A Sure Sign of Spring

Evergreen Brickworks held their first outdoor market today.  If there was ever a sure sign of spring this is it.  Market-goers, cyclists, runners, hikers, and dog-walkers were only a few examples of those who took advantage of a lovely day to get away in the valley. Suzy, Aija, Nyls had a bit of an adventure and trekked up the west bank trails before we descended on the market.  The farmers we habituate: Ben Sosnicki of Sosnicki Organics, Mark Trealout of Grass Roots Organics, Jim Hayward of Haystrom Farms, and Jens Eller of Marvelous Edibles, patiently endured being interrogated by Aija on what type of soil they had at their farms.  Jessie Sosnicki had great news as well; she's expecting their third baby!

Once we were done catching up with the people who've provided so much of the food we enjoy we picked up a few of the early arrivals as well: radishes, lettuces, baby kale, spring onions, carrots and various other treats.  They all ended up on the table for a simple dinner with a couple of things I whipped up.  Kale Pesto and Chick Pea and Quinoia Hummus accompanied a St. John`s Bakery baguette, a cheddar from Ruth at the Montfort Dairy all accompanied by wild ramps foraged by Seth Goering from Forbes Wild Foods.  All in all a perfect start to what finally seems to be spring!


What did you make on this lovely day?

Saturday, March 19, 2016

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Fondue Pot

When I was a boy the fondue pot would often appear when my parent's closest friends visited. Savoury fondues of cheese or meat accompanied by good wine and better conversation were the norm.  We would be arranged carefully around the table; men and women in alternation. The excitement ran high when a piece of bread went astray in the pot.  The men would rise to refill the glasses if the errant crumb was theirs.  My mother would always laugh nervously before she kissed the man next to her despite having known them all for decades.

Somewhere along the way the fondue pot fell by the wayside.  The last time I can recall seeing the simmering away on the table was in the eighties.  I am fairly certain Flock of Seagulls was still popular at the time. It just softly and suddenly vanished away, never to cross my mind again... Until this morning.  Toby Stevenson and I had planned an afternoon to experiment in the kitchen while Suzy and Toby's wife Lisa took the boys to the hockey game.  Suzy and I were discussing what Toby and I might make over tea this morning when the word appeared.  Fondue. The word was good. It bore with the scent of smoky cheese, beef simmered in oil, and echoes of laughter.

If only we had a fondue pot. Suzy opined that Toby and Lisa would have one if anyone did. I texted Toby.  No luck! Undeterred, I set a menu.  It was too early to call, but IQ Living was certain to have a pot for us!  That afternoon Toby and I set forth.  The Liquor Store was first. The Meat Department was our next stop for their excellent local grass fed beef.  We ordered a couple of pounds of sirloin cut into small cubes.  The trip got better when they offered us a half pint of local ale while we waited for the meat to be cut.  Then it was off to Alex Farm Products to sample the new arrivals and pick up a piece of cheese. IQ Living set us up with a fondue pot as expected, and also let me know that Suzy and I had a hundred dollar credit on our account.  The day kept getting better and better!


Back at the Hotel Cavell Toby and I cleaned up and prepared the food and equipment.  The boys were fed and went off to play, and we set our plan in motion. The table was set.  Pickles, fruit, sauces, bread and cheese were laid out to accompany the pot of simmering oil and cubes of fresh, red, local beef.  We talked. ate, drank, and were merry. Memories of other times and other friends were refreshed by the laughter and scent of beef in hot oil.

When we had all had our fill and the table was cleared I called me parents.  My mother, Sylvie, answered the phone. "Guess what we had for dinner!" I said.

My mother said, "Well, I don't know." She paused. "Fondue?"

Oh how I laughed!  "How did you guess?"

"Guess what we're having for dinner!" was her reply.

"Fondue?"

It was indeed.  Coincidence though it may be, my heard grew light with memories of good times past and present.  Some things are as good as you remember.



P.S. I could not help but notice how long it has been since my last post. It is good to be writing again after a long hiatus, and I hope to share more in the weeks to come.

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Roast Provencal Chicken

The roasted chicken was another hit of yesterday's memorial dinner.  Even my cousin Lee, a lifelong vegetarian, was briefly tempted by the aroma.  We roast capons. The bigger bird makes for generous portions.  It also takes longer to cook.  If you flatten it, as I described in this post back in January, you can marinate it more readily and the cooking time is dramatically reduced.  This time round we made two. Nyls and I prepared the marinade, I flattened and marinated the birds, and my father, Nick, manned the barbeque!

Prepare the the marinade several days in advance to allow the herbs and garlic to infuse the oil. Combine:
Zest of 3 lemons
2/3 cup of lemon juice (approximately 3 lemons)
3/8 tsp of pepper
1/2 head of garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon of dried herbs (Herbs de Provence, rosemary, or the classic parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme)
in a Mason jar. This is enough for one chicken.

On the night before or the morning of:
Flatten a 7 pound chicken
Rub with:
Coarse, kosher, or sea salt.
Place the bird in a large baking dish and pour the marinade over the bird. Marinate for up to 24 hours, turning occasionally. If you start the marinade the night before you should cover and put it in the refrigerator.  If it is the day of you can do it at room temperature.

When you are ready to cook the chicken pre-heat the grill to 400 degrees.  Have one side of the grill on and leave off on the other.  Place the bird on the unheated side and close the lid.  The cooking time is approximately 10 minutes per pound.  Baste the bird with the marinade every fifteen minutes or so.  Do not flip the bird or you will break up the delicious, crispy skin!  Remove, cut into pieces, and serve!

The Perfect Pastry

One of the culinary highlights of yesterday's memorial dinner was Lee's quiche.  The foundation was the fabulous pastry.  Here is Lee's recipe!


Knead together:
1 1/4 cup of flour
1/4 cup of butter
Until it forms crumbs.  Add:
2 1/2 tbsps of cider vinegar
3 tbsps of water
And knead lightly.  Roll out and form in the pan. If the filling will create a lot of liquid, like peaches or apples you need to bake the crust to prevent it from getting soggy.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Prick holes into the crust and line with:
Tinfoil
Fill to the brim with:
Dry rice or beans
and bake for 20 minutes.  The filler keeps the crust from expanding.  Remove the foil and filler and voila!

Quiche is easy, and so Lee made two, one for dinner yesterday, and one for breakfast this morning. Our friend Abby also prepares and freezes prepared crusts so you can whip up a pie whenever you need one.

A Menu for a Mediterranean Memorial

Jacques Ducau in North Africa as a young man
It has been a few months since my Uncle Jacques passed away.  At the time the cold and dark winter made a memorial seem a sadder occasion than it ought to be. My cousin Lee and I planned a gathering in the summer to celebrate and remember. This weekend, while Lee's daughter visited from England,family and friends gathered at my parent's to remember over a few of things Jacques loved most: good conversation, good food, and good drink.  Jacques would have prepared the entire dinner himself. We shared the load, cooked for most of the day, and we found a new appreciation for just how remarkable Jacques was.

 Here is the menu and a pictures!

First Course:
Fresh Cherries
Salmon in Cream Sauce
French Potato Salad
Crudites with Hummus
A Selection of Cheeses
Baguette
Spicy Pickles and Pickled Asparagus

Second Course:
Gherkins
Grilled Hallumi and Baguette
Beet Salad
Corn on the Cob
Flattened Grilled Chicken
Mediterranean Salad
Quiche
Tart Tatin



The day started with rain.  Then the sun came out, a beautiful breeze tempered the heat.  Three generations of of family gathered on the shore. A pair of local pilots demonstrated their dog-fighting prowess in their bi-planes over the Sound.  We ate, drank, and made merry until the sun went down.

The People

Nyls prepares the marinade for the chicken
Lee making pastry for the quiche
Sooneiah after cleaning the beans

Jacques son Jacques with some of the grandkids: Jack, Elyse, and Sooneiah

John's wife Susan enjoying a moment without one of the twins

Nick and Sylvie in one of their favourite spots

The memorial board

Nyls watching the dog-fighting biplanes over the Sound

Aidan tries on Oma Norma's hat
Aunty Norma talking as usual
Nyls and Aija using their spotting scopes

The Food
The Flattened chicken

Beet Salad

Mediterranean Salad

Grilled Hallumi

Tart Tatin




Monday, August 3, 2015

Maria's Campfire Slovakian Goulash

In this day and age we often get caught up in the latest kitchen gadgets.  I have done a fair bit of campfire cooking in my time, from soups and stews to a boiled pudding made in a bag on a mountaintop.  However, it has been a while.  A visit to a friend's house this weekend was a good reminder of how great - and simple - campfire cookery can be.  This is the second year Maria has made us her traditional Slovakian version of goulash while we visited.  It is more like a meaty soup than the recipe we make, and each time the recipe is a bit different, and equally delicious.  The quantities and ingredients are variable, the results are uniformly excellent.

Add:
Stewing Beef
Flank Steak
Hanger Steak
Pork Shoulder
Pork Sausage
Venison (optional, traditional)
Ribs (optional)
Some peeled potatoes
Onions 
Tomatoes
Paprika
Marjoram
Salt 
Pepper
To a large, lidded fireproof pot until it is 2/3 full and cover with:
Water
Hang from a tripod over hot coals and keep at a simmer for seven or eight hours.  For the last hour of cooking add:
More potatoes.
Serve hot with fresh bread.

I have seen many people struggle to cook over a campfire.  The problem is that they try to cook over fire as opposed to coals.  The trick is to make hot coals as quickly as possible, and then feed them from a fire at the side.  The secret is the log cabin approach to fire building.  Old Boy Scouts may swear by the teepee, but nothing makes a good bed of coals faster than a log cabin.  The cabin also acts as a chimney, and you heat the pot before the coals are ready.  Adjust the height of pot over the fire to get the desire temperature.  

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Simply Salad Dressing

In this day and age it is hard to compete with the massive industrial processed food machine. If you have ever tried parching your own corn, shelling peas for a big batch of fresh pea soup, or making your own jam you know it is a labour of love. The payoff is knowing where your ingredients have come from and the certainty that the person who grew them has received a fair price for his toil. There are some things where the effort is just too great for the payoff.  Enter Jennifer Reese, the Tipsy Baker.  She did the math, and compiled a list of where the investment in time and energy really pays off in, "Make the Bread, Buy the Butter." If you have not read it yet, it is not too late.

Salad dressing is one of those high return on investment items.  The ingredients are simple, preparation and cleanup are a breeze, and you will save an arm and a leg.  You can also skip cheap oils and chemical emulsifiers like Polysorbate 60 with natural ingredients that have the same effect. There is also a nifty little trick to emulsify your dressing I will relate below. Nyls will provides a handy demonstration of how simple this is as well!

In a glass one cup measure add:
1/3 cup acid (wine vinegar, cider vinegar, balsalmic vinegar, lemon juice lime juice, verjus, or a mixture)
1 tablespoon mustard (choose a flavour to complement the acid)
1 tbsp dried herbs or 3 tbsp fresh herbs (you can use leftovers from a pickle jar as well)
1 clove fresh or pickled garlic (again, leftovers from a picke jar are handy)
1/2 teaspoon of sweetener (sugar or honey, or a tablespoon of balsalmic glaze)
Optional: 1 cooked egg yolk
Stir together and let sit for a while if you have time. Add:
Oil (usually olive* or walnut oil, or peanut oil for an Asian themed dressing at the Hotel Cavell)
Until you have a full cup. Put a small whisk in the cup and spin it between your palms.  Between the air this introduces and the natural emulsifiers in the mustard your dressing will take its time separating.  A quick shake a few days later and you are ready to go.  Decant the lot into a serving bottle and serve.  Store it on the shelf.  None of these ingredients will go bad, especially together.

With this recipe in hand the only reason you should  have left to buy another bottle of Renee's admittedly delicious vinagrette is for the bottle.  You could pay for a salad dressing bottle from your local kitchen supply place. However, one worth paying for will probably set you back as much or more than the salad dressing did. Yet another way to avoid the man getting his pound of flesh from us foodies! 

* Remember that Tom Mueller found that the vast majority of olive oil on grocery store shelves has been adulterated with cheaper oils.  The taste and fridge tests are not reliable, so look for an oil that has been sourced directly from the grower.  You will pay for it, but not as much if you buy in bulk. Five litres of oil will set you back 60% less per litre than a single one.  Or go big with 25l and share with friends!